Maintained and retrofitted a genuine german “BAT” lantern. (Bats were produced from WWII till Germany’s reunion i think). Mine is estimated around 30 years old.
It is clearly seen on its tank ” BAT, No 158, MADE IN GDR” or eastern Germany.
That lantern, had its rust removed and brush painted, first layer with anti rust paint and 2 times later with black mat tin paint. Handle, wick controller (on-off & dimmer) and tank cap are polished tin (no color). Globe is frosted and labeled with my stamp and model number in red lettering.
In a standard mode, bot lid is opened and the battery holder along with the running circuits are seen.
Goes with a 5v 2A 110-220v charger.
- Fully decomposable. Globes can be replaced, bulbs and Li cells (batteries).
- Smooth dimming few to 350 lumens (typical)
- Smooth Light – No glare. Durable frosting on the globe.
- On off switch incorporated to wick controller.
- Rugged internal circuit with active short circuit protection (soft fused) and passive short circuit protection (PTC fuses). Baby safe, no fire hazard under any circumstances.
- High efficiency and adjustable maximum power output (how much is lit at max). Can achieve as much as 450 lumens but in running time expense.
- Typical bulbs have 15 x high efficiency Samsung SMD LEDs 25×25 mm pleasant warm white 2700K(default colour), outputting around 120 lumens per watt. Bulbs are fitted to lantern’s body with GU10 sockets
- High energy efficiency typically over 90% . (low heat)
- Lasts around 7 hours with fully charged good Li 18650 cells (2200 mAh actual+ and at 0.9 amp draw or 350 lumens)
- Smart IC boost circuit that maintains same luminosity irrelevantly battery charge state (FP5138b)
- Standard 5mm red LED, indicates low battery voltage warning (3,2 and below) or when in charge mode, charging is completed (no current goes in)
- Good quality components
- Can work with 1-3 cells.
Avoid contact with water, rain or prolong exposure to very humid environments. Tested to have some tolerance but not indefinitely.
When replacing cells (batteries) correct polarity placement is a must! (see upon battery holder). Takes Protected Cells!
Typically, lantern’s cells discharge with time. If the voltage level goes too low then permanent cell damage may occur. A rule of thumb is that in order to maintain a charge when the lantern is idling is to do the following:
Turned on the lantern and turning the wick controller to full power, if the red LED lights after 1min or so, then charging must be given (1-2 hours for idling 3-4 months). From fully empty till to fully charged times vary depending the amount of cells inside. For all cells inside and for good quality, around 6-7 hours of charging is needed.
For trickle charging and getting the most energy to go inside the cells, you have to do the following.. turn the lantern on at 1/3 of power and have the charger connected (red led on). No more than 1/3 and most of all no at full power since the charger goes in danger that way. (too much amperage draw)
In case of failure in some point in the future of the light bulb or desire for another color i can provide a new one too for a price. Bear in mind those LEDs are regarded as one of the most efficient in the industry today. Nonetheless, having the LED development running fast, in the not so distant future those lanterns could provide as much as 50% or even double light for same power input, by just replacing the bulbs.
Paint minor scratches, metal irregularities and internal circuit aethetic imperfections are inherently present due to the hand made manor of retrofitting
The feeling that lantern radiates when you stare it cannot be conveyed by any photo!